(For a Printable PDF version, Download link below)
You will need to Purchase Magnetic Paint to be able to use Wall Fling
You’ll need magnetic paint as a base. Here are a couple of options:
- Rustoleum Magnetic Primer
- Magnetize It Magnetic Paint (Note: Comes in a plastic bucket—transfer to a standard paint can for professional mixing. You can do that at any Lowes or Home Depot)
Whatever magnetic paint you go with, MUST be professionally mixed within 24 hours of painting. Otherwise, it is too thick to work with.
Magnetic paint is available online (including Amazon) and at stores like certain Home Depots or Lowe’s.
You can paint over the magnetic paint with whatever paint color you want your wall to be. First, however, paint the wall with Kilz primer since the magnetic paint is black. That way you need less coats of the wall paint. The less coats the better for the wall paint so that there isn’t a lot of barrier between the magnetic paint and the magnetic tiles.
How to Order Wall Fling
Two Ways to Order:
First Way: Let Us Do the Math – Just enter your wall measurements as described below, and we’ll calculate how many tiles you need. We’ll automatically add 10% extra to your order to account for any mistakes or cutting errors.
- Measure Total Wall Area
- Measure the length (in feet) of each wall you plan to wallpaper. Add all the lengths together and round up to the nearest whole number. Enter this in the “Length” field on the shop page.
- Measure the width (in feet) of each wall you plan to wallpaper. Add all widths together and round up to the nearest whole number. Enter this in the “Width” field on shop page.
- Measure Window & Door Openings
- Measure the length of all windows and doors on those walls. Add them together and round down. Enter this in the “Window/Door Length” field on the shop page.
- Measure the width of all windows and doors on those walls. Add them together and round down. Enter this in the “Window/Door Width” field on the shop page.
- Quantity Field
- Leave the quantity set to “1” if you’re using the measurement-based ordering system.
- Only change this if you’re ordering a specific number of tiles (e.g., for samples or replacements).
- Click the “Add to cart” Button
Second Way: Order Individual Tiles – Need a few tiles for samples or replacements? Simply enter the number you want in the Quantity box next to the “Add to Cart” button.
Get a head start—paint your walls with magnetic paint while your Wall Fling is on the way!
Installing Wall Fling
🧰 Tools & Materials You’ll Need
*note we have separated these tools and materials out into their specific steps except for the safety gear which should aways be included
- For Painting the magnetic paint:
- Magnetic Paint
- Drop Cloths or Plastic or Paper Sheeting – To protect floors and furniture
- Painter’s tape – For clean edges and protecting trim or outlets
- Sandpaper or sanding block – To smooth patched areas and rough spots before you paint
- Dry wall putty and knife if there are any holes to be repaired
- Screwdriver – To remove switch plates, outlet covers, curtain rods, etc.
- Ladder or step stool – To reach high areas
- Paint brush
- Paint Roller
- Roller Pan
- For Installing the Wall Fling magnetic wallpaper:
- Laser Level = cross line
- Professional Shears – To cut magnetic tiles
- Guillotine Paper cutter/trimmer – To make the cuts for the magnetic tiles (optional but makes for easy cuts in places that can use a straight edge)
- Safety gear (gloves, goggles, mask)
- Scribe (included)
- Sharpened Pencil for marking magnetic tiles
- Wall Fling magnetic wallpaper tiles
- Box Cutter
Step 1: Professionally Mix the Paint
Before you paint with the magnetic paint, have it Professionally Mixed at a paint store or hardware store that carries paint the day of or not more than the day before painting
*Very important … It is thicker than regular paint so mixing at a hardware store helps tremendously
Step 2: Prepare the Surface for Paint
Tools needed: drop cloths/ plastic or paper sheeting, painter’s tape, sandpaper/ sanding block, dry wall putty and knife, screwdriver, ladder
- Cover surfaces: Lay down protective drop cloth or plastic on floors and furniture to prevent dripping paint on those surfaces.
- Clean the wall if needed: Wall must be dry and smooth.
- Repair imperfections if there are any: Patch holes or cracks and sand down bumps.
- Tape around windowsills, door frames, and baseboards with painter’s tape
- Remove switch plates, outlet covers, curtain rods, etc.
Step 3: Paint the Wall
Tools needed: magnetic paint, paint brush, roller, roller pan
Before You Paint – Please Read This First:
Even if you know how to paint, these key points are essential:
- Get the paint professionally mixed at the store.
- Apply multiple coats (recommended 3-4). The paint job will directly impact how good it looks.
- Don’t paint beyond corners and edges because you do not want to see the magnetic paint sticking out beyond the magnetic tiles after installation. In other words, it’s better to stop short than have magnetic paint show outside the tile area.
- Make sure Step 1 has been done (PROFESSIONALLY mix the paint)!
- Stir thoroughly: Magnetic paints have iron particles that settle, so ensure they are evenly distributed by stirring the paint often before and during application.
- Pour paint: use a paint tray that incorporates a grid to remove excessive paint from the roller.
- Use a dense foam roller: This helps distribute the paint evenly and create a smooth surface.
- Apply paint to roller: make sure not to have too much paint on the roller to avoid dripping. Likewise, make sure that you keep enough paint on the roller while painting to avoid paint particles from off shooting from the roller.
- Apply paint to the walls: Apply with a steady, consistent motion. This helps avoid streaks or uneven coverage. Try to get as close as you can to the edges of corners, door frames, window frames, and or any outlets or protected surfaces.
- Paint edges, corners, around protected areas with a brush.
- It’s best to not paint beyond corners, edges, and protected surfaces because you do not want to see the magnetic paint sticking out beyond the magnetic tiles after installation. In other words, it would be better to not reach the edge of the trim, etc. than to have the magnetic paint getting onto the trim.
- Apply multiple thin coats: Three thin coats are better than two heavy ones, and you can add more coats for stronger magnetic power. Allow at least 45 minutes of dry time between coats. Furthermore, try to use the paint within 72 hours of having it shaken and keep cans closed while not in use.
- Allow adequate drying time: It would be best to allow 6 or more hours before installation of the tiles. 24 hours is ideal.
- If painting over the magnetic paint with whatever color wall paint you wish, paint one coat of Kilz first to allow for less coats of the wall paint (since the magnetic paint is black).
Pro Tip:
- Use each can of paint within 24–48 hours of opening.
– After that time, the paint may thicken and become difficult to apply.
Good news! – You’ve done the hardest part
Step 4: Plan the Layout
Tools needed: Laser Level, Wall Fling
A: Set Up the Laser Level
Place your laser level on a flat surface and turn it on.
Aim the laser at any part of the wall where you can clearly see both the vertical and horizontal lines. These laser guides will help you map out the placement of your magnetic tiles.
B: Place the Anchor Tile
Place your first tile where the vertical and horizontal lasers intersect.
Align the left or right edge of the tile with the vertical line, and the top or bottom edge with the horizontal line.
This tile is your anchor—everything else builds from here.
C: Build the Vertical Layout
From your anchor tile, stack tiles above and below, forming a vertical column.
Add as many full tiles as you can—stop when a full tile no longer fits at the top or bottom.
D: Apply the “3-Inch Rule”
In the video example, there’s about 1 inch of space at the top and 7 inches at the bottom.
This won’t work—tiles less than 3 inches wide don’t have enough surface area to hold magnetically.
To fix this, shift the entire column down a few inches until there’s at least 3 inches of space at both the top and bottom. In the video example, there are around 4 to 5 inches on top and bottom.
This ensures proper hold.
E: Map the Horizontal Layout
Now map your horizontal layout the same way.
Check both sides of the wall and around any doors or windows.
Avoid violating the 3-inch rule on either end.
If the placement creates a narrow strip under 3 inches, shift the entire column left or right until the spacing works.
(If you’re wrapping the pattern around a corner to a connecting wall and you want the pattern to line up, ensure the empty between the last tile placed on one wall and the beginning of the next is exactly 11 inches—the width of one tile. This helps the pattern align from wall to wall.)
F: Adjust the Laser Guide
Readjust your laser level so that the cross aligns with wherever the anchor needs to be placed after adjustments.
Use the laser as your guide for building out the rest of the wall, so that you stay on a straight line.
G: Using Tiles as Rulers Around Obstacles
When working around windows, use full tiles as measuring tools.
Place them temporarily under or over the window to see where the pattern will land on the other side.
(Note: these tiles can break the 3-inch rule, because they’re only being used as measuring guides, not permanently placed.)
H: Finalize the Layout
Complete the vertical layout on each section of the wall to make sure the horizontal placement works on all sides of windows and doors. In other words, to make sure that you are not going to violate the 3-inch rule on any side of windows or doors or on top or bottom of windows and doors. Note that if you are only installing Wall Fling on one wall that has no windows and doors you will only need one vertical column and one horizontal column to ensure adherence to the 3-inch rule.
If you used any tiles under or over a window or door as a ruler, remove those.
I: Begin Installation
Now you’re ready to start filling in the wall with your magnetic tiles.
Work across and down, filling the wall in all areas that can fit a full tile. Leave all cutting for last. Be sure to use the laser on the first row of horizontal tiles to ensure you have a straight line. Once you get the first horizontal line laid out you no longer need the laser.
J: Make Cuts
Cuts are explained in the next section.
Step 5: Cuts
Tools needed: Wall Fling (included), Scribe (included), Professional Shears, Sharpened Pencil, Guillotine Cutter
- Making Cuts (all described in detail in the following sections below):
- General Edges
- Window/Door Trim
- Window Sill
- Outside Corners
- Inside Corners
- Corners where tiles meet (top/bottom and left/right)
- Switches/Outlets
- When space is too small to fit scribe
What is a Scribe?
A scribe is a tool used to trace the exact outline of an uneven edge, corner, or molding. It helps you mark precise cut lines on a tile so you can trim it accurately using a utility knife or shears. We included the perfect one for Wall Fling. 😊
General Edges
To make a precise cut, follow these steps:
A: Lay the Tile
Place a full tile directly over the last tile you installed.
Make sure all edges line up perfectly—square on square.
In the alternative, you can use this full tile last placed as the one to mark and cut and then simply place a full tile back in the empty spot.
B: Use the Scribe
Take the provided scribe and place it flat against the surface with the blunt tip touching the adjacent wall. The other side of the scribe with the “V” notch should rest on top of the tile you just placed.
Insert a pencil tip into the “V” to mark the tile beneath.
C: Mark the Cut
Slide the blunt edge of the scribe down the wall while making a mark with the pencil all the way down but note that you can simply make a mark on the top and the bottom, so long as the blade hits along both marks.
You make marks for the top and bottom edges the same way. Here, we are marking the tile that will go along the bottom edge.
D: Cut the Tile
Remove the marked tile from the wall.
Place it in the guillotine cutter, lining up both marks with the edge where the blade will cut.
Make sure the tile is straight and firmly held in place with your other hand, keeping your fingers and hand clear of the blade.
Bring the blade down in one clean motion.
E: Install the Cut Tile
Place the freshly cut tile back onto the wall in its correct position.
Repeat as needed for all cuts on edges of the walls.
Window/Door Trim
A: Lay the Tile
Lay a full tile directly over the last one placed, aligning all edges (square on top of a square). You can also use the full tile last placed as the one to mark and cut and then simply place a full tile back in the empty spot.
B: Use the Scribe
Place the provided scribe facing front and flat and level with the tip/blunt edge up against the window or door frame and the “V” shape on top of the tile that you placed. This is the tile that you will mark and cut. Insert a pencil tip into the “V” to mark the tile beneath.
C: Mark the Cut
Slide the blunt edge of the scribe up the window or door frame while making a mark with the pencil all the way up along the window or door frame. Note that this may be sliding down depending on what part of the frame you are working on.
D: Cut the Tile
Remove the marked tile from the wall.
Use the professional shears to cut along the mark.
E: Install the Cut Tile
Install the cut tile on the wall.
Window Sill
A: Lay the Tile
Lay a full tile directly over the last one placed, aligning all edges, square on top of a square. Here, the window sill will cover two tiles so lay both so that you can make a continuous mark down the window frame and sill. You can also use the full tile last placed as the one to mark and cut and then simply place a full tile back in the empty spot.
B: Use the Scribe
Place the provided scribe facing front and flat and level with the tip/blunt edge up against the window frame and the “V” shape on top of the tile that you placed. This is the tile that you will mark and cut.
Insert a pencil tip into the “V” to mark the tile beneath.
C: Mark the Cut
Slide the blunt edge of the scribe down the window frame and around the sill while making a mark with the pencil all the way down moving in and out as necessary around the contour of the window frame and sill.
When you get to a point where the scribe needs to move in, flip the scribe so that the right angle fits snuggly along the contour. You need to have the right-angle snug against all contours so that the mark is accurate for cutting.
D: Cut the Tile
Remove the marked tiles from the wall
Use the professional shears to cut along the mark.
E: Install the Cut Tile
Install the cut tile on the wall.
Outside Corner
A: Choose Wall
Choose one wall to have tiles that slightly overlap adjacent wall at the corner, about a penny’s width. You will cut those tiles slightly larger so they extend just past the edge of other wall for clean, covered corners.
B: Lay the Tile
Lay a full tile beside the one last placed. This will be the one to cut.
C: Use a Penny to measure
Use a penny to mark the top and bottom of the tile.
D: Cut the Tile
Remove the marked tile from the wall
Use the guillotine cutter to cut along the marks.
E: Install the Cut Tile
Install the cut tile on the wall.
Inside Corner
A: Choose Wall
Choose one wall to have tiles that slightly overlap the adjacent wall at the corner (about a penny’s width). You will cut those tiles slightly larger so they extend just past the edge of other wall. It is best to have the wall that will not overlap already cut and placed.
B: Lay the Tile
Lay a full tile over the last one placed but place it a penny’s width off so that there will be a slight overlap onto the other tile once this one is cut.
C: Use the Scribe
Place the provided scribe facing front and flat and level with the tip/blunt edge up against the adjacent wall and the “V” shape on top of the tile that you placed.
Insert a pencil tip into the “V” to mark the tile beneath.
D: Mark the Cut
Slide the blunt edge of the scribe down the wall while making a mark with the pencil all the way down but note that you can simply make a mark on the top and the bottom, so long as the blade hits along both marks.
E: Cut the Tile
Remove the marked tile from the wall
Use the guillotine cutter to cut along the marks.
F: Install the Cut Tile
Place the tiles that will not overlap, the ones on the adjacent wall first.
Install the overlapping cut tile on the wall.
G: Smooth tile
Use your finger to press into the tile at the corner to make a slight bend in the tile for a smoother look.
Corners where Tiles Meet (top/bottom and left/right)
A: Place Tile
Place a full tile over the closest full tile near the corner.
B: Mark the Tile
With the tile in position, place the scribe tip against the adjacent wall and insert a pencil into the scribe’s V-notch and slide the scribe to mark the tile, or simply mark top and bottom edges on the tile.
C: Mark the Tile
Before removing the tile, repeat the process by placing the scribe tip against the ceiling, trim, or baseboard and slide the scribe to mark the tile, or simply mark theleft and right edges.
D: Remove the Tile
Remove the tile and use the marks as cutting guides.
E: Cut the Tile
Cut the tile using the guillotine cutter.
F: Install the Cut Tile
Install the cut tile on the wall.
Switches/Outlets
A: Remove the cover plate from the outlet or switch.
B: Place the tile in its intended position over the outlet, making sure it aligns with the surrounding tiles.
C: Mark the center of the outlet area by feeling where it is beneath the tile, then mark a 1×1 inch square on the tile with a pencil where the outlet is located.
D: Cut a small starter hole (about the size of a quarter) at the marked spot using a handheld razor (box cutter) on a safe cutting surface. We use the surface of the guillotine cutter.
E: Test the fit by placing the tile back on the wall. Use the opening to better see & feel edges of the outlet.
F: Enlarge the hole gradually, trimming a little at a time until the full outlet or switch is visible. Be careful not to cut beyond the size of the cover plate.
G: Reinstall the cover plate to finish.
When Area is too small to Fit Scribe
A: Lay the Tile and Mark the Cut
Place the tile over the area to be cut as if you were laying the tile without the frame there. Use a pencil to mark the tile where it will need to be cut so that it fits around the frame.
B: Cut the Tile
Remove the marked tile from the wall.
Here we use a guillotine cutter to cut the tile along the marks but you can also use professional shears.
C: Install the Cut Tile
Install the cut tile on the wall.
NOTE FOR REINSTALLING TILES: Use a laser level to ensure they line up perfectly when you put them back up.
Downloadable/ printable pdf…